Blichmann.Autosparger

Blichmann Engineering AutoSparge™ Mash/lauter tun level control

Price AUD $79.95 Finally a sparging system that's a "set-it-and-forget-it design"! This elegantly simple design automatically sets the hot liquor flow rate and liquid level in your mash / lauter tun. As you change the sparge rate into your boil kettle, the AutoSparge™ automatically responds by increasing or decreasing your hot liquor flow to compensate and keeps a constant level in your tun. Awesome for RIMS systems! Works great with gravity systems OR with pumps! Wort gently rotates on top of grain bed to reduce channeling, oxygen pick-up, and to increase extraction efficiency. WIth a constant hot liquor level over your grain bed, complicated rotating sparge arms are unnecessary complications! Float ball and rod are stainless steel. Valve body is low-lead surface treated brass. Includes 18" silicone hose and foam hose float. Requires a 13/16 mounting hole. See installation tab for details. Fits any pot larger than 12" in diameter including converted kegs. Adaptable to coolers. See installation tab for cooler installation.

Blichmann Engineering AutoSparge™

Mash/lauter tun level control

Price AUD $79.95

Finally a sparging system that's a "set-it-and-forget-it design"! This elegantly simple design automatically sets the hot liquor flow rate and liquid level in your mash / lauter tun. As you change the sparge rate into your boil kettle, the AutoSparge™ automatically responds by increasing or decreasing your hot liquor flow to compensate and keeps a constant level in your tun. Awesome for RIMS systems!

Works great with gravity systems OR with pumps! Wort gently rotates on top of grain bed to reduce channeling, oxygen pick-up, and to increase extraction efficiency. WIth a constant hot liquor level over your grain bed, complicated rotating sparge arms are unnecessary complications!

Float ball and rod are stainless steel. Valve body is low-lead surface treated brass. Includes 18" silicone hose and foam hose float. Requires a 13/16 mounting hole. See installation tab for details.

Fits any pot larger than 12" in diameter including converted kegs. Adaptable to coolers. See installation tab for cooler installation.

To install yourself, you'll need to punch/drill a 13/16 hole in your pot or cooler. A 7/8" hole will work, but it's a little on the big side. We recommend using a step drill or a knock-out punch. When drilling stainless steel a moderate to slow speed is best to avoid overheating the tool. While hole saws will also work, they are difficult to use in stainless sheet metal. Recommended Locations to install the Autosparge in the Boilermaker Pot.
To install into A Cooler

The threaded portion of the AutoSparge™ is not long enough to fit through a 1-2" deep cooler wall so you will need to use a 2" hole saw for clearance for your hose connection and a smaller hole for mounting the AutoSparge™. To do this, drill a 1/4" pilot hole all the way through the cooler at the desired location. Then slowly and carefully hole saw through the outside layer of the cooler. Be carefull so you don't accidentally drill all the way through it. Remove the outer cut-out and foam insulation inside the hole. Then drill the 13/16 mounting hole through the inside wall of the cooler with a step drill. Here are a few shots of the installation in a 10 gal Rubbermaid cooler:

To install yourself, you'll need to punch/drill a 13/16 hole in your pot or cooler. A 7/8" hole will work, but it's a little on the big side. We recommend using a step drill or a knock-out punch. When drilling stainless steel a moderate to slow speed is best to avoid overheating the tool. While hole saws will also work, they are difficult to use in stainless sheet metal.

Recommended Locations to install the Autosparge in the Boilermaker Pot.

To install into A Cooler

The threaded portion of the AutoSparge™ is not long enough to fit through a 1-2" deep cooler wall so you will need to use a 2" hole saw for clearance for your hose connection and a smaller hole for mounting the AutoSparge™. To do this, drill a 1/4" pilot hole all the way through the cooler at the desired location. Then slowly and carefully hole saw through the outside layer of the cooler. Be carefull so you don't accidentally drill all the way through it. Remove the outer cut-out and foam insulation inside the hole. Then drill the 13/16 mounting hole through the inside wall of the cooler with a step drill. Here are a few shots of the installation in a 10 gal Rubbermaid cooler: